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Why the Black River Gorges deserve a day of your holiday

Most British visitors come to Mauritius for the lagoon, the rum and the sunshine, and quite rightly so. But the island's best-kept day out is up in the hills, where Black River Gorges National Park protects around 6,574 hectares of native forest, deep ravines and some genuinely spectacular waterfalls. This is the last stronghold of the island's endemic wildlife, home to the Mauritius kestrel, pink pigeon and echo parakeet, and it feels a world away from the resorts on the coast.

The good news for holidaymakers is that you do not need to be a seasoned mountain goat to enjoy it. Well-marked trails lead from roadside car parks to waterfall viewpoints within half an hour or so, while longer routes wind on for hours if you want them. This guide covers the classic waterfall walks, how to get there, and what to pack for the humidity.

Getting there and the practical basics

The park is in the south-west interior, easily reached by hire car from Flic en Flac (roughly 30 to 40 minutes), Tamarin, Le Morne or Bel Ombre. If you are staying in the north around Grand Baie, allow an hour and a half each way, or consider a night or two in the south instead of a long round trip.

Public buses run to the villages at the edges of the park but do not serve the trailheads, so a car or a pre-arranged taxi is far more practical. Roads are winding and narrow in places, so drive steadily and keep an eye out for cyclists and the occasional wandering dog.

• Opening hours: the park is generally accessible from early morning until around 6pm; start before 10am if you can.
• Entry: free, with no booking needed for the main trails.
• Facilities: the visitor centre at Pétrin, near Plaine Champagne, has toilets and information boards; there is very little else, so bring everything you need.
• Mobile signal: patchy once you are in the gorge, so download an offline map before you set off.

Waterfall trails to aim for

Alexandra Falls is the easiest big reward. From the roadside car park on the Plaine Champagne road, a short, gently descending path of around 20 minutes brings you to a viewpoint where the river drops about 30 metres into the gorge. There are usually a few stalls nearby, but do not rely on them being open in quiet periods.

The Gorges Viewpoint is a few minutes' drive further on and looks straight down the Black River valley towards the coast. It is a lookout rather than a hike, but it is worth combining with Alexandra Falls in the same trip.

Mare aux Joncs offers a proper half-day walk to a quiet waterfall and pool, reached via forest tracks from the Pétrin area. Allow two to three hours return, and expect muddy patches even in the dry season.

The Macchabée Trail and the Parakeet Trail are the longer options, looping through mossy native forest with the chance of spotting endemic birds. These are the routes to choose if you want a full day out, and they can be combined with the climb to Black River Peak, the island's highest point at just over 800 metres.

What to wear and carry

The forest is humid, often 80 per cent or more, and the trails can be slick with mud and wet roots. The single most important decision you will make is your footwear.

• Grippy shoes with real tread – walking shoes or trail trainers, not smooth-soled trainers or flip-flops.
• At least two litres of water per person – there is nowhere to refill inside the park.
• A light rain jacket – showers arrive quickly, even in the driest months.
• Insect repellent – mosquitoes are active in the shade and after rain.
• Sun cream and a hat – the exposed viewpoints are fierce at midday.
• Snacks, and a bag for your rubbish – take everything back out with you.
• A charged phone and a power bank – for maps, photos and emergencies.

Timing, weather and the humidity

Mauritius has two broad seasons. The cooler, drier months from May to September are the most comfortable for hiking, with temperatures in the interior often a good few degrees below the coast. October to April is hotter, wetter and stickier, and cyclone season runs roughly November to April, so check the forecast and avoid trails after heavy rain.

Whatever the season, start early. Morning cloud often builds into afternoon showers, and the earlier you begin the more wildlife you will see and hear. Take your time on ascents, drink more than you think you need, and remember that the climb back to the car park is usually harder than the walk down.

Staying safe and respecting the park

Stick to marked trails – the gorge is steep, the undergrowth is dense and shortcuts are how people get lost. Let someone know your route and expected return time, and turn back if the weather closes in.

You will almost certainly meet macaques, and sometimes wild boar or deer. Keep your distance, never feed them, and secure your snacks. This is a fragile conservation area, so stay quiet near nesting birds, take only photographs and leave only footprints. Treated with a bit of care, a day in the Black River Gorges will be one of the memories you bring home from Mauritius.